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Grapevine Rapids greeted us early on the morning of the 4th day with a bone chilling cold splash. One of the passengers across from me, whose lips had turned blue, began to shake uncontrollably from the soaking. The canyon walls see no sunshine until mid-mornings, and there is little relief from the cold until then. A stop was made at Phantom Ranch at the bottom of Bright Angel Trail. This would be our first contact with "civilization"...cool beer, and restrooms. Repairs where made to one of the small boats in our party, as well as the loading of supplies brought down by mule train. The cactus provided a ray of color to the landscape with there spectacular blooms throughout the canyon. The next 20 miles would have 16 rapids, the largest being Crystal. Protruding rocks and low water levels can make this rapid a real danger. Water levels are controlled by Glen Canyon Dam, and can vary from day to day. I have no idea of what the level was that day...was too busy hanging on! We woke the next morning to find the boats that had been docked at shoreline the evening before where now 10 feet below us...as I stood looking down and wondering how I would ever be able to load my waterproof duffel bags aboard. Boatmen rescued the situation by relaying the bags aboard as passengers picked there way down the steep bank. Day 5 proved to be relatively calm in comparison to the rough and tumble rapids traversed the day before. A stop was made at Deer Creek Falls where most enjoyed a refreshing shower from the falls. Camp was made at Tuckup Canyon at mile 164. All River Rats gathered around the campfire to hear tales of what awaited us the next morning...Lava Falls, one of the most dangerous and unpredictable rapids on the river. The day of reckoning had arrived as all the rats arose before daybreak in anticipation of the "grandaddy" of all rapids, Lava Falls. The "big boat" remained behind so some could walk over the lava boulders to vantage points for taking pictures of the small boats dropping into the 30 foot plus holes created by the rapids. Then came our turn to plunge into the rapids. It was all over in 30 seconds, but the pounding hearts remained long after the event. At Witmore Wash new supplies were brought down into the canyon and repairs made to one of the boats. An early camp was made, and the sandbar island provided a perfect spot for washing body and clothes. The silt from the river had turned white clothing into ugly gray. Everyone scrambled to find a bit of shade from the 110 degree afternoon temperature. A birthday party lead down to the river with a dunking into the cold water for the unfortunate "birthday guy" that night. This would be the second birthday party of the trip where everyone dug deep into their duffel bags for a gift...how about an Eskimo Yo -Yo or a balloon? Georgie was found sitting on the big boat as evening approached...taking in the quiet beauty of the Colorado. Under a star studded sky, several groups gathered to relive the events of the day, and talk of what lay ahead. |